Where to Stay in Malta

Whether you’re splurging on a boutique hotel in the capital city of Valletta itself or looking for budget-friendly options nearby, Malta offers something for every traveler. I opted for Hammock Vibes Townhouse in Sliema, where I snagged their charming Marsaxlokk Room for just 47 euro (around $50) a night in November 2024. From Sliema, you’re just a quick ferry ride away from Valletta’s grandeur, with the added bonus of experiencing more local life just outside of the tourist center.

Day One – Valletta’s Greatest Hits

Assuming you’re landing in the afternoon (I arrived around noon), you’ll want to make the most of your first half-day. After dropping your bags, head to the ferry for a short crossing that gives you your first proper introduction to the Grand Harbour. When you arrive at the Valletta waterfront, take the shuttle bus to the city center — it’s already included with your ferry ticket.

St. John’s Co-Cathedral

When you emerge into Valletta proper, make your way straight to St. John’s Co-Cathedral and prepare to be surrounded by one of the most impressive European churches you’ll ever visit. I’ve toured dozens of cathedrals across Europe, and after a while, many start to blend together in a stained glass and marble haze — but St. John’s stands apart in every way, especially for the art history nerds out there.

This cathedral houses not one, but two Caravaggio masterpieces. “The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist” is massive and haunting — it’s actually the largest painting Caravaggio ever created and the only one he signed. Then there’s “Saint Jerome Writing,” which is smaller but just as captivating. Make sure to visit on a Friday when the museum is open, and give yourself enough time to explore all the side chapels. And don’t forget to look down — the floor beneath your feet is its own museum of intricate marble tombstones.

Upper & Lower Barrakka Gardens

From the moment you walk up to those arches at the Upper Barrakka Gardens and gaze across the harbor, you’ll begin to understand why empires fought over this island nation for centuries. I arrived just in time for sunset, when the ancient fortification of Fort St. Angelo was bathed in amber light. Give yourself at least 30 minutes here to soak in the panorama and snap those golden hour photos. A short walk away, you’ll find the Lower Barrakka Gardens. The views are equally stunning, but the quieter atmosphere makes it perfect for reflecting on your first few hours in Malta.

Drinks at San Paolo Naufrago

Let’s talk about this TikTok-famous spot. The ambiance? Perfect. The wine? Divine. The lasagna? Well… let’s just say some things are more famous for their views than their pasta. I’d recommend trying one of their rabbit dishes instead or opting for a quick drink here before heading back across the harbor to Sliema, where you can grab dinner at the locals-recommended La Cuccagna.

Day Two – Three Cities to Medieval Mdina

Wake up early and make the most of the morning with a walk along the Sliema promenade, followed by breakfast at Food For Fit. They serve their morning menu all day, and the portions are perfectly sized to fuel you for the marathon day you have ahead.

Birgu (Vittoriosa)

Hop on the ferry and enjoy another harbor crossing to Birgu, one of Malta’s three fortified cities, where you’ll find St. Lawrence Church — an underrated treasure built before Valletta even existed. During my November visit, I happened to be the only visitor. One of the church’s stewards offered me an impromptu tour, telling me stories about his life in town between nuggets of wisdom about the Knights of St. John. He even invited me behind the pulpit to see Mattia Preti’s “Martyrdom of St. Lawrence” up close. Leave room for spontaneous moments like these with locals; they’re what you’ll remember long after the ink on the postcards have faded.

Senglea Gardens

After wandering some of the side streets of Birgu and encountering your fair share of neighborhood cats, make your way to the Senglea Gardens. The walk there along the promenade offers views that will make you grateful for comfortable shoes and a fully charged phone for photos, while the gardens provide a perfect vantage point to see the Grand Harbour from a different angle than your Day One views. If you can, plan to arrive just before noon for the Saluting Battery show across the harbor — it was a spectacle of sound and smoke that drew gasps from everyone watching.

Mdina

Using Uber to maximize your time, head to Mdina, Malta’s old capital. As you pass through the impressive main gate, you’ll find yourself walking back in time along ornate doors and limestone walls the color of honey — many of which conceal the homes of noble families who have lived here for generations. This doesn’t include the famous blue door at 3 St. Agatha’s Street, perhaps Malta’s most photographed entrance to what is now an Airbnb.

While in Mdina, you can also pay a visit to Palazzo Falson, a medieval mansion now housing a museum with elegant period rooms, or St. Paul’s Cathedral with its stunning baroque interior featuring more Mattia Preti paintings. Before leaving, climb to the city walls for panoramic views stretching all the way to the Mediterranean. Give yourself at least two hours to wander Malta’s “Silent City.”

Rabat

Just a short walk from Mdina, Rabat gives travelers a better glimpse of everyday Maltese life — you’ll see schoolchildren walking home under the watchful eyes of neighbors, nannas hanging laundry out to dry across their balconies, and bars bustling with regulars stopping by for their afternoon coffee. Pop into St. Paul’s Catacombs if you have time, or simply enjoy strolling through streets where locals still outnumber tourists on most days. For an authentic snack break, don’t miss Crystal Palace in Rabat — their pastizzi (traditional Maltese pastries filled with ricotta or mushy peas) are legendary among locals and travelers alike, especially when enjoyed piping hot with a cold Cisk beer or traditional tea.

Blue Grotto Viewpoint

If your timing aligns with sunset, make a point to visit the Blue Grotto viewpoint — it’s worth adjusting your schedule for another Uber ride over. The changing late afternoon light creates a breathtaking display on the limestone cliffs and cerulean waters below, transforming the scene with every passing minute. This also makes for a perfect photo opportunity without needing to take the actual boat tour (but more on that ahead).

Evening in St. Julian’s

Before dinner, St. Julian’s offers excellent shopping options if you need to pick up anything you need — in my case, a swimsuit, after finding the weather was much warmer than forecasted. A word to the wise: always pack swimwear in Malta. The Mediterranean has a way of tempting you toward the water, even in November.

End your day at Hugo’s Lounge, where innovative Asian fusion dishes complement the sleek, date-night atmosphere. Their spicy Thai soup — packed with succulent prawns, ginger, lemongrass, mushrooms, and chili — was a standout, as was the chicken satay that arrived still sizzling at the table.

Day Three – Island Hopping

For your final full day, consider a boat tour. I booked with Luzzu Cruises, a family-owned operation I discovered along the Sliema promenade. Their day trip to Gozo, Comino, and the Blue Lagoon departs daily at 10:00 AM and returns at 5:30 PM — perfect timing for a 72-hour itinerary.

Gozo, Comino & the Blue Lagoon

After boarding in Sliema, we sailed toward Gozo, Malta’s sister island. Once docked at Mġarr Harbour, we piled into buses with our wisecracking Gozitan guide. Our first photo stop was Xlendi Bay, where turquoise waters crashed dramatically against limestone cliffs, before heading off to Gozo’s capital city of Victoria. Most of our group made the trek up to the Citadel — our calves protested, but those ancient walls rewarded us with views that made the climb worthwhile.

By afternoon, we were back on the water, heading to the tiny island of Comino. The famous Blue Lagoon was our main destination: a breathtaking inlet of impossibly blue waters. Visiting in November meant the water was too crisp for a proper swim, but the lack of summer crowds offered unobstructed views and peaceful sunbathing spots. I stretched out on warm rocks, letting the Mediterranean sun bake away my imminent end-of-vacation blues before being whisked back to the mainland.

Dinner at Ta’ Kris

Back in Sliema, I ended my day at Ta’ Kris, a traditional Maltese restaurant housed in a former bakery. You’ll definitely want to make a reservation — even in November’s low season, I got lucky to snag a last-minute spot for one. I ordered the Majjal il-Forn on my server’s suggestion: slow-cooked pork infused with a medley of Mediterranean herbs and honey that falls apart at the touch of your fork. It was possibly the best meal I’ve had in months, and the portion was so generous that I practically waddled back to my accommodation.

Day Four – One Last Adventure

On my final morning, I made a quick call to the dock to check if boats were running to the Blue Grotto — a series of sea caves on Malta’s southern coast. Not only were they operating, but by arriving for the first tour of the day (around 9:00 AM), I enjoyed an almost private experience. Our small boat navigated through seven interconnected caves where the morning light filtered through the cracks. The entire excursion takes less than 30 minutes, but those moments watching sunlight dance across the azure waters were some of the most magical of my entire trip.

With a few hours to spare before my afternoon flight, I headed back to Valletta for one final wander. If your departure timing allows, consider doing the same. Don’t miss St. Ursula Street, where you can capture that iconic shot of the Carmelite Church dome framed perfectly between local buildings. I capped things off with a visit to the Grandmaster’s Palace, which served as the residence for the Knights of St. John for over two centuries and now houses the President’s office. The State Rooms and Armory, filled with their ornate decor and centuries-old weapons, sent me off with one last dose of Malta’s rich history before reluctantly heading to the airport.

While a long weekend can’t possibly cover it all, Malta doesn’t need much time to work its magic on travelers. This tiny nation somehow manages to condense centuries of Mediterranean drama into every cobblestone and cove — proving even the smallest countries can leave the biggest impressions